Taipei: Street Food Galore

Dear family and friends,

Hot, humid greetings from Taipei, the street food capital of the world!! Tonight is my last night in Taipei, and after a few fun-filled days of walking, eating, and exploring, I'm about ready to jump into a fluffy cloud and stare into the stars for a long while.

Fay and I saw some amazing sites- Taipei 101 (the tallest building with 101 floors and a 360 panoramic view on the 88th floor), CPK Memorial Hall (the late president's memorial with tons of art exhibits and his personal artifacts), Longshan Temple (in which I prayed for all of my family and friends, so don't worry, you're included), Shilin Night Market (the biggest night market in Taiwan), and the National Palace Museum (over 8,000 years worth of Chinese treasures). Now doesn't that sound like a full two days? Every night we went to the night markets and tasted the cheapest, best street food ever!! Sticks of delicious, grilled or fried meats, vegetables, noodles in hearty broth, shaved ice filled with fresh fruits piled a mile high, and I even tasted chicken crown! (tastes a bit like licorice!) Alas, I did not have the Taiwanese infamous stinky tofu and blood items. Who can blame me??

Tomorrow I'm heading back to Hong Kong. I'm a bit weary of diving back into that chaotic, intensely busy scene of high-rises at every square inch. Taipei is a lot calmer, with sizable buildings at average height, and with a lot fewer people. I don't speak any Mandarin at all, so it's a bit harder to communicate here than in Hong Kong. Hand motions and crazy pointing only go so far when vendors speak rapidly and assume you can understand them!

My research is about to experience a rapid incline once I get back to Hong Kong, so my days filled with total freedom are over! I'm still going to stick fun in between my studies, of course, but I really hope I can nail this down and get some good results.

Best from Taipei! Cheers.

Lamma Island: how i almost lost an eye

Dear Family and Friends,

With every trip that I take for research, I find that the first few days are always the hardest. I wonder if I made the right decision in coming to this particular city, or if I will find what I want and need. In Vancouver, it was the moment when I saw my first community garden on a very busy intersection. Seeing the blooming lettuce, cherry tomatoes, brussel sprouts, and other greens bursting through the rich soil up towards the sun made my moment stand still. I knew then that this was fascinating, and I was eager to soak up all that I could.

In Hong Kong, the past couple of days have been spent orienting myself around the city and getting my bearings on my surroundings. However, today proved to be my big "aha!" moment that aligned some of my puzzle pieces, and that form of confirmation disguised itself as an island--specifically, Lamma Island.

Fay and I met with my sister Janny's friend and old roommate from Yale. We went for drinks up on the IFC building (tallest so far in Hong Kong, but about to be surpassed by a taller one in construction in Kowloon). Afterward, Flora suggested we go to Lamma Island, a small island south of Hong Kong Island (but still part of Hong Kong) to explore a quieter, fishing-oriented side of Hong Kong. We took a ferry over and hiked across the island on a trail through the mountainous terrain and was able to see the beautiful sunset and walk through the rural communities on Lamma. I was amazed at the complete 180 degree turn from the city-risers and concrete jungle that I had been walking through since I arrived. I fell in love with the island, even though by the end of our hike it was almost pitch black and we were trying to make our way up and down around the bay to the seafood restaurants and ferry landing. We passed by local shacks and small farm plots all along the trail. In that moment I knew I had come to the right place.

Lamma is a huge tourist destination for people who love seafood and want a different feel of Hong Kong. We dined at a delicious seafood restaurant right on the water. To order, we had to walk up to the huge array of tanks filled with local seafood delights, such as pissing shrimp, crayfish, variety of fish, razor clams, abalone, a big variety of shrimp, and a lot more. When the food arrived, it was soo good! I especially loved the garlic pissing shrimp, which was succulent and sweet. So here's the story: as I was enjoying the last piece of shrimp, I had to use the special scissors to cut through the thick skin to fork out the juicy meat. As I was cutting the skin, a cubed piece of red hot jalepeno pepper flew straight into my right eye. Before I even felt the burning sensation, I braced myself for it. Then--BAM! my eye was stinging like there was no tomorrow. My eye turned bright red (so I was later told), and I was going insane trying to get it out or blink it away and was rubbing/dabbing/flailing like a madman. My company had to help me remove it with issue infused with tea as I squirmed and was cursing like a sailor. That hurt!! I guess that needs to happen at least once in everyone's life, ay? That and being shat on by a flying seagull. But no need to fly straight to Hong Kong to check if my eye is doing okay...thank God for my contacts or else I think the oils would have absorbed faster into my eye and made it more painful.

I feel extremely motivated and eager to continue my research and continue to explore Hong Kong. I am heading to Taipei, Taiwan tomorrow for several days, but when I get back, it's me+farms+food+locals+my pathetic Cantonese= A somewhat adequate research process.

I feel as if I am in a bubble here in Hong Kong. The news of the earthquake in Haiti sounds a million miles away, but seeing bits of the news really is sobering and heartbreaking. I hope that not only are my loved ones safe and happy around the world, but that communities, cities, countries, and the world can cooperate to aid those in need and do what they can to lend a helping hand.

Peace.



the delicious, yet lethal, culprit

What's that fruit? What about that one over there? And THAT one??

a really fat cat on the entrance way to a little pet store in north point.

the skyline of the kowloon side as seen from Wan Chai.

finally catching a glimpse of the water! it has a definite calming effect on me.

the chef's sampler salad plate for lunch in SoHo.

alley way of goods.

fish cake/ball noodle soup. quite tasty.

a late night dessert of tong yuen (glutinous rice balls with black sesame paste and peanut inside).

ride porridge with fish. mmm this was good!

the view from my hostel room! very vibrant.


Hello family and friends,

I've arrived in "Fragrant Harbor," or more commonly known as Hong Kong to the lowly commoner. I arrived yesterday morning, and spent the day exploring North Point, a neighborhood on Hong Kong Island before meeting up with my cousin Fay who will be in Hong Kong for the next couple of weeks with me. This is the first time I am not solo traveling for a long period or for research, so it will be quite a different experience. I truly cherish wandering and exploring different cultures and cities alone, so it is always a challenge to balance that with a fellow companion who has different priorities and a different traveling style. That said, I am optimistic about our short time together before I am left on my own once again to further my research in the New Terriroties in northern Hong Kong!

Walking through the insanely busy, chaotic streets, my senses are often assaulted from left and right with unique sights, smells, and sounds. I am on a stimulation overload, and sounds of the never-slowing street life has become the backdrop of my life here. This trip thus far has been strange because, being Chinese-American, I do not feel natural here, and even though I can comprehend what people here are saying, I feel disassociated with the culture and context. No doubt I feel like a traveler, and from the stares I've been receiving, I'm not the only one who thinks so!

Today I was able to explore Central and Wan Chai, other busy sectors on Hong Kong Island. The quaint, busy alleyways were filled with local vendors with dozens of fruits and vegetables that aren't commonly found in the U.S. It was a great experience, and my calves got a great workout from those hilly landscapes! And Fay and I ate a lot. A LOT. Snacks here and there, such as delicious shumai's-on-a-stick that had us going back for more, or boba drinks with "white pearls." I'm going to pace myself or I'm going to have to be rolled home as cargo.

A couple more days on Hong Kong Island before heading to Taiwan for 3 days! I'm spending the next couple of days orienting myself to a new city, but I need to get a-crackin' on my research. So far I've discovered a vast array of organic farming, farmers' markets, and NT farming that I plan to uncover further and research. But research involves a lot of aimlessness until certain bouts of success, so I'm not concerned yet.

Wish I could write more, but the combination of walking all day and being jet-lagged makes a mamie tired. I thought I was going to be able to post every day and make it a detailed traveler's journal, but with the last couple of days of going out morning til dark, that ain't gonna happen for now!

Adieu!

I think my brain is more scattered than my luggage at this point.

Bonjour! (no, I am not heading to France).

Welcome back to my travel blog! I felt it appropriate to add an entry one day before I embark on another exciting adventure into the heart of Southeast Asia and later, Colombia.

The surface of my bed is jam-packed with a plethora of clothes, sketchbooks, shampoos, and other essential items, such as lip gloss. The fact that I will be a wanderer for most of the next three months has not fully hit me, and feelings and thoughts cannot be put into words. I hope this passes soon or this blog will prove to be moot.

I hate packing, but love living out of a suitcase. When your world is stuffed into a portable home that can be wheeled around the world, your options are reduced, and you need to be resourceful and clever with what you have. You are aware of everything you have in your bag, and an old shirt you would've never given a second thought to at home suddenly becomes your favorite shirt to wear while traveling. And your hair conditioner becomes a great shaving creme, a razor becomes a pathetic but somewhat effective weapon, and your earrings a great trade for food (which I have not yet experienced but am prepared for nonetheless).

Just to update a few of you who are unaware, I am traveling to study urban agriculture in dense cities around the world. A few months ago I was in Vancouver, and now I will be researching in Hong Kong and Bogota, Colombia. But along the way I will be taking trips to Taiwan and Thailand, for personal growth and well, just because I can. When if not now?

I am excited to begin my research in Hong Kong, especially because I have been called crazy by numerous people as to why I chose this urban concrete for a research destination:
"There is no food production here!"
"Looking for farms? Ha! You ignorant, beautiful girl, you!" (Okay I added the beautiful part, but it softens the blow)
"You are making a big mistake!"
etc.

This, my friends, is the very reason why I pick HK. It is a skyscraper-centric environment with slabs of marble and concrete soaring above the bare, tree-less streets, and who mainly depend on mainland China for food importation. But what outsiders, even locals, don't realize is that Hong Kong is filled with small-scale efforts in organic farming, fish-farming, government agriculture intervention, and land dedicated to improving the city's sustainability and overall health. This will be a challenging site, I admit, but as people (only me) say, "When you stop challenging yourself, you stop living."

But besides the research (which may be a snore for some of you), I'm eagerly awaiting the taste of authentic, fresh dim sum and thick noodle soups to fill my gastronomic passion. I can't wait to hike and explore the nature that is a rarity in Hong Kong.

I look forward to writing from Hong Kong and other cities. Thank you for turning into mini figurines and coming along in my day pack!

Cheers.

The Grouse Grind: what doesn't kill you only makes you sore,wet, and cold.

(Me nearing the top of the Grouse Grind and soaking wet!)

Hello family and friends,

This past week has been busy! I really miss the farm and the family, and am sad to have to leave this beautiful city. NOTE: This is my last post until mid-January when I'll be writing from Hong Kong and Southeast Asia! Stick around for more...

Today was my last day in Vancouver and I decided to end it with a bang! This morning I hopped on the seabus to the city of North Vancouver (just directly across from downtown Vancouver) and then bussed up to Grouse Mountain, in the Capilano region. I wanted to take the Grouse Grind trail, which is this ridiculously strenuous, steep, and intense hike up to the peak of Grouse Mountain where there's a ski lodge and resort-type thing. The elevation gain is about 3,000 ft. over about 2 miles almost straight uphill. It's about 45 degrees incline the entire way up.

So it was raining when I began the trail. That should have foreshadowed the suffering to come, but ignoring that, and the fact that at the trailhead there was a large group of Canadian Army soldiers about to ascend probably for training purposes, I began. You immediately start climbing. And climbing. And climbing. At about the 1/4 mark, I felt like I just ran a marathon. Water was pouring down and clinging to my soaked body, and I'm not sure if it was rain or sweat. I think both. At one point I was panting and trying to breathe and a few guys passed me on the way downhill and they had said they were giving up and that up ahead a few big guys were barfing.

But I continued. Slowly but steadily. I felt that I could turn back at any point if I couldn't take it anymore, but in actuality I knew I wouldn't let this trail best me. Quite a few people passed me, especially a few old men wearing running tights that told me they did this regularly. One guy as we rested told me he was a smoker and couldn't continue on up, so he started descending.

Over all, I had a hell of a time going up, and finally when I began to see pockets of sky creeping among the leafy foliage overhead, I saw fresh powdered snow everywhere, and it was lightly snowing! So here I am, drenched from head to toe from rain and sweat, and here comes this added snow.

When I reached the top I got hot chocolate and a blueberry muffin, and then took the gondola down the mountain (which took 8 minutes, damn it!). I was squeezed in with a bunch of the army guys who were pretty obnoxious, I ain't gonna lie.

I'm about to head off to a nice hot shower and get ready to spend a great evening enjoying Vancouver!! Ciao. Here I come, San Jose!


(At the Chinese garden just on the periphery of Chinatown.)


(Me on the bridge planks hiking in Lynnbrook Canyon.)


(Here's Christine, the wonderful lady I'm staying with right now who is wonderful company and an inspiring person!)


(In the summertime teenagers jump/dive off the canyon walls into this water! But when I went it was freezing.)


(On the suspension bridge!)


(By the roaring canyon river)


(After I climbed up Grouse Mountain! My backpack weighed like lead.)


(Snowy paradise!)


(Burrrrrrrrrrrrr)


(At the start of the trip trailing the Army guys)


(At the beginning of the trail. That large yellow sign is a disclaimer of responsibility and "go at your own risk" type of notice.)


(Fireworks outside my window on Halloween!)


(from Prospect Point at Stanley Park while I was doing my seawall trail hike. I really fell in love with that 8km loop and did it twice!)