Thursday, February 4, 2010

I'm slowly, but surely, melting in thailand


Dear family and friends,

I can't believe it's been a week since I've last written. I stopped taking so many photos, and oohing and ahhing over every fascinating Hong Kong marvel. I think that is when one truly feels a part of a people and a culture--when you stop viewing everything from a glass window, but find yourself happily on the other side one day! After three weeks there, and doing and seeing so darn much and exploring different corners of the place, I truly feel comfortable and calm there, yes, even amidst the chaotic streetscape and sharp elbows.

Last night I arrived in Phuket, an island in southern Thailand that's one of the more touristy sites known for its beaches. I arrived near midnight, and once I got outside the airport, was not only bombarded by the hot, wet heat, but by swarms of men crowding and yelling "taxi, taxi, taxi!! where you go???" at me! Then I spotted my beautiful sister Janny who had trekked all the way out of town to wait for me at the airport! It was a blissful moment, since she has been traveling in New Zealand, Austrailia, and Malaysia for the past 6 months before meeting me in Phuket! We will be traveling for about two and a half weeks before I head back to Hong Kong, and she to conquer other realms on Earth.

Today we relaxed and traveled to the beaches on these small trucks with two rows of seating in the back, and it was quite a fun experience zooming through the city and mountains on the back of these rickety contraptions! We did the usual lounging, wading in warm water, drinking mango and pineapple concoctions, etc. On our way back to town we also walked through a street market with..you guessed it- street food! But there was also such a huge variety of fruit that it's mind-blowing. I've learned that when words are not possible, a smile works just as well as a form of communication, or question, or whatever you want it to mean. We bought several varieties to try, and sadly I had to forgo the durian stand! There will be many more chances up ahead, I know. Plenty more chances to annoy Janny with the horrible, toxic-like aroma of durian fruit!

Tomorrow we're leaving Phuket and heading up along the coast, then we're going to head to Bangkok and Chiang Mai for the next couple of weeks. We hope to do some amazing snorkeling off of an island to the west of the coast tomorrow or the next day!

Here are some last photos of Hong Kong and some new ones of this new country I'm in! It's a different experience here because I've never traveled in a country where I honestly don't know even ONE SINGLE WORD of the locals' language. Language and communication is such a key aspect of a culture that so much is lost in translation, and I feel that without that key, one cannot completely immerse themselves wholeheartedly into their surroundings, no matter how much they try. But I'm beginning to learn simple phrases like thank you and hello/bye.

I miss home and everyone, but look forward to exploring Thailand! Cheers.




deep-fried steamed milk with a date honey sauce. it was so strange, yet really creamy and delicious.


my new friend Kitty who's amazing and showed me some pretty cool places!


a lady shucking shallots for a seafood restaurant in Sai Kung.





at a strawberry farm with Ian! next time I go back, I'm going to pick a basketful of those perfect berries!



Phuket night market: grilled fish and an assortment of other goods.




Thursday, January 28, 2010

Pink dolphins and farms

Dear family and friends,

These past few days have been very exciting! I've seen a pink dolphin, explored the small fishing village of Tai O, seen the main agriculture farmlands of Hong Kong, and met up with some wonderful people. Life is good here in Hong Kong, and I can't believe I only have 6 days here until I go to Phuket!!

Tai O is one of my favorite experiences in Hong Kong so far! Fay, our new friend Ian, and I took a bus to Tai O, on the island of Lantau through winding mountains with gorgeous views of the South China Sea. Tai O is famous for its productions of fermented shrimp paste and dried, salted fish. When we arrived, we decided to go on a small boat ride through the stilted, aluminum houses of the villagers and out to the mouth of the sea to spot the famed pink dolphins (only found in the South China Sea, I believe)!! It was only the three of us on the boat with the captain, and off we went! As you will see in the photos, it was AMAZING. We wandered up through what truly felt like an "Asian Venice," or a bit like the riverboats in Thailand. It was strange to see aluminum homes perched atop unstable-looking stilts above the water! Then we went in search of this mythical creature. I was sure this ride would be like those San Francisco "whale-watching" rides in which all you ended up spotting was a fistful of kelp. So we rode out into sea and all four pairs of eyes were scanning the horizon, but I was sure the only one who would spot a dolphin, if anything at all, would be the experienced, beady eyes of our boat captain, an ancient Chinese man. But holy smokes!! Out of the corner of my eye I could see a blur of movement, and I look over just to catch a pink dolphin diving back into the water not 30 feet away!! Of course I shrieked and the chase was on! We slowly manuevered through the calm waters to where the little devil seemed to be going, and soon enough there were several more sightings of the dolphin jumping up and diving back into the water! At one point it was about 5 feet from our boat, swimming around and curious, or perhaps bored, with this boatful (well, three) of peering strangers.

That boat ride was honestly the best $20 HKD (which is less than $3 USD!!!!!) that I have ever spent in my life.

We continued on after the boat ride to explore the village, where rows of dried fish, shrimp paste, live seafood, and dried fish stomach (a delicacy costing around $25,000 HKD, about $3000 USD, for about a pound!) were being sold.

We wandered through the village and along the seashore, and spotted so many vegetable gardens tended by the elderly locals slowly working the rich earth. I find the growth of vegetables to be so beautiful and exciting. Something about those stalky, healthy plants shooting from the soil and becoming a perfect specimen to be eaten and enjoyed! Pretty cool.

Besides my trip to Tai O, I also visited several farms in the Gam Tim area in the New Territories. My new friend Kenneth, the marketing manager for a local vegetable marketing organization, drove me to various sites so I could see my first real farms in Hong Kong. It was a great experience to see first-hand where the local, organic produce was grown and tended to by the real farmers in the city, and I learned a lot. I also saw some huge dogs. Oh, and to say driving in Hong Kong is an insane, death-defying task would be a grave understatement.

I'm officially alone in Hong Kong now, since Fay ended her vacation here and went back to the States. But with my research, we weren't able to spend too much time together anyway, but it was fun while it lasted. I've resumed my solo traveling mode and am going to enjoy this too, I know. Ordering from restaurants with only Chinese menus will prove to be amusing events, I am sure.

I have plans to finally go hiking in Hong Kong! Locals here don't hike a lot, I've learned, even though there are amazing, breath-taking panoramic hikes in the mountains and beaches in Sai Kung, Hong Kong Island, and the islands. I will also be meeting up with a couple more people for some fun, and doing a bit more research. I'll let you know how it goes!







this was the most delicious thing EVER! it's ginger milk custard that is silky, sweet, spicy, and a taste of heaven!







the pink dolphin!! i'm surprised i was lucky enough to catch a photo!


Man's small, insignificant existence compared to the natural world surrounding us.




puts shaved ice in the states to SHAME.


Bride's Pool Falls. I think there is a story of an unwilling bride traveling to wed a man through an arranged marriage. She falls in/commits suicide in these falls, and her ghost can be seen combing her hair....AHHHHHHHHHH!!




The largest, and only, terraced farm I've ever seen. Quite a spectacular site to see terraces on the whole side of the mountain, each terrace filled with different vegetation.

A big pig at Kadoorie Farms. They have 10 pigs, and they are teaching the public how to raise organic, happy livestock.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Foggy Buddha and Lost Pants

sweet tofu. so silky delicious and warm!










there are many neon-lighted brothels with tiny stairways with liaisons sitting there at night to make deals. really sad to see.





Dear family and friends,

It's been a while since I've been back in Hong Kong from Taipei. I've been staying here in Kowloon, near Mongkok and Tsim Sha Tsui. It is very lively here with daily night fairs and markets, all with unique products, such as the popular fish street (bags and bags of golfish hanging from booths), Temple street (with rows and rows of fortune tellers, palm readers, and stands selling tons of "adult" toys (imagine haggling for that!)), bird markets, ladies' market, flower market, and etc. We usually walk through different night markets every day, and although abundant, lacks the nature of my now-beloved Taiwan street fairs and mouth-watering snacks.

I've also been finally performing research here, and have many appointments and tours set up with city officials and local farmers. This weekend was the annual Farmfest with a huge gathering of organic farmers selling their products (dried fish, anyone?) Tomorrow I am going to a big organic farmer's market in Central, and volunteering there to experience the set up and organic farm practices here in Hong Kong.

Today Fay and I went to Lantau Island, where the infamous huge, bronze Buddha sits on top of the mountains. We took a sky-cable-car ride above the hills and trees to a village at the base of the Buddha and Po Lin Monastary. Unbeknownst to us, we arrived there in one of the foggiest days since we've been here! So the entire trip lacked clear views, and I could barely see 15 feet in front of me! But the Buddha and his greatness were still witnessed, and I have foggy photos to prove it!

I have been doing some retail-therapy here as well...and since I forgot two pairs of pants at the Taipei hostel, I had to buy more! The jeans here are tailored to your desired length for free right at the store, so that was super convenient and nice, although I highly doubt I would wear those pants again back in the states. You know how low-rise jeans are common in the U.S. and barely reach your hip bone? Well, here it is the complete opposite and I found the distance between the crotch of the jeans to the end of the zipper to be ridiculously long, but surprisingly comfortable! But like I said, not going to be wearing those back home.

I've been receiving positive news and contacts on some Bogota research opportunities once I'm in Colombia in March, so I am already a bit frazzled by all that I have to do here, and all that I need to plan to do in Colombia! And then there's the in-between trip to Thailand to meet my sister Janny! Ah que loco!!!

Fay is leaving on Thursday, and then I will be here for another week. I will be staying in Kowloon until I leave for Phuket.

I miss family and friends. I love you all and take care.